Sequence of Bloom to Perennials & Biennials

Flowers bloom at different times of the year. As an example, sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) bloom early spring, while chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum morifolium), at U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, bloom in the fall. Some flowers, like clematis (Clematis), bloom in spring, summer or fall. Other flowers, like roses (Rosa), bloom from spring through early winter in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. Understanding when the flowers bloom helps a gardener organize the expression of the landscape and make sure that’s it colorful all through the year.


Biennials like hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), USDA hardiness zones 3 through 8, don’t bloom at all the first year. The energy of this plant can be used to develop a healthy bush with a strong root system. The plant blooms the next year, sets seed and then dies. Like annuals, some easily reseed themselves and develop season after season, giving the impression that they are perennials. Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica), USDA zones 3 through 9, blooms in spring. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea L.) blossoms in spring. It prefers cooler climates; nevertheless, 1 variety, “Spanish Peaks” foxglove (Digitalis thapsi “Spanish Peaks”), which rises in USDA zones 5 through 9.

Spring Perennials

Perennials contain spring flowering bulbs like freesia (Freesia), USDA hardiness zones 9 through 10, and iris (Iris ensata), USDA zones 3 through 9 . Other spring bloomers include pincushion flower (Scabiosa sp.) , USDA zones 3 through 9, which has been bloom until early fall, and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), USDA zones 2 through 9. It does not tolerate heat and shouted back in the summertime.

Summer Perennials

The summer garden is full of perennials such as yarrow (Achillea), USDA zones 3 through 9, with its flat head of hundreds of tiny blossoms in yellow, purple or pink. The blossoms are held over the plant’s foliage on sturdy stems. It’s a favored to dry. Coneflowers (Rudbekia), USDA zones 4 through 10, bloom with daisy-shaped flowers which have bright purple petals and a dark brown center.

Fall Perennials

Chrysanthemums are most likely the best-known fall flower. Colors include yellow, white, purple and rust. Among the flower forms are pincushion, quill and daisy. Flower sizes range from button mums, less than 1 inch in diameter, to spider mums, over 6 inches round. Asters (Aster novae-angliae), USDA zones 4 through 8, are another fall-blooming perennial.


Not many flowers bloom in the winter where the weather is cold and frosty. However, in warm winter areas like USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, the fall perennials continue to bloom until early spring perennials take over. Geraniums (Pelargonium graveolens), USDA zones 9 through 12, pansies (Violax wittrockiana), USDA zones 4 through 8, and snapdragons (Antirrhinum), USDA zones 9 through 11, bloom as well.

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What Is the Difference Between Roses and Spray Roses?

Spray roses refer to roses that develop clusters of blossoms on one stem or branch. Contrary to long-stem roses that produce one bloom per stem, these roses create a spray of smaller blossoms and are generally sold as sweetheart roses at the florist. Spray roses can, however, be grown in a pot and are generally labeled as mini roses.

Rose Variety

Floribunda roses produce a few blossoms on a branched stem often called a spray. These flowers are nestled tightly in a cluster. Each bud opens separately. The spray of roses often contains climbed in various stages of adulthood, from tight buds to fully open flowers.


Spray roses constitute the bulk of little bouquets and corsages, together with the foliage creating an attractive background for the brightly colored blooms. Sprays are ideal for little floral arrangements where bigger roses may be overpowering. They add a touch of romance to some setting or occasion.

Bloom Type

Like other roses, spray roses could be single, double or semi-double flowers. Single flowers have one layer of four to eight petals, while semi-double flowers have anywhere from eight to 25 petals. Double blooms could have up to 45 petals. Bloom color is similar to other fireworks, which range from white and pink to deep red.


Spray roses typically have smaller blossoms compared to other roses. Because the flowers are close together, one spray resembles a little bouquet held together by thin stems that join a thicker main stem. Though there are exceptions, even with some full-length floribunda roses forming a spray, generally, spray roses are prized for their mini size and dainty cluster of blooms.

Potted Spray Roses

Spray roses grown in pots tend to be mini roses. These roses obtain their name from the blossom size — maybe not the size of the plant. When transplanted to the garden, or grown in a large container, mini roses often climb to heights of 12 to 36 inches.

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The way to Grow Potted Fig Trees

Figs are one of the least complicated fruits to develop and the trees endure few disease or pest problems. Figs thrive in the warmer climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. The trees thrive in containers, which is particularly helpful in colder zones because you can move them to a protected area in winter. Choose many different fig tree that self-pollinates for best outcomes. Some kinds of fig tree, such as “Brown Turkey,” are far better suited for colder climates than many others.

Steep a handful of compost or organic fertilizer in water overnight, then strain and pour the water onto the soil each month until late night. At the onset of the season, dig a handful of compost into the container soil.

Keep the tree well-watered through the summer and spring, watering when the soil is dry 1 inch beneath the surface. Should you allow the soil dry out completely, the leaves will drop off as well as the tree is not as likely to produce fruit.

Prune the fig tree as required to control its growth. Cut off any dead sections of wood and remove branches that are growing across other divisions. The ideal time to prune is after harvest, notes horticulturist Ellen Barrado of Bowood Farms.

Wrap the container using a sheet of burlap or a blanket in the winter to protect the tree’s roots from deep snow and frost. If the temperatures drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, your very best choice is to bring the container indoors to a cool and dark area, like a basement or garage, to get the winter. The tree should be dormant until you bring it in. Water the container to keep the soil from totally drying out but do not worry when the tree drops its leaves in the winter.

Check the fig tree for almost any insects, such as aphids, before you bring it indoors for the winter or outdoors for the season. “Organic Gardening” magazine recommends spraying the tree with dormant oil, which will suffocate and kill any insects until you bring the tree in it.

Re-pot that the fig tree every two or three years using fresh container soil. Carefully remove the tree and its roots in the container. Empty from the container and then clean it thoroughly, or utilize a new grass. Fill the container with fresh ground and replant the tree, being careful not to cover the crown.

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What Are the Side Effects of Vinyl Waterproof Mattress Covers?

Vinyl waterproof mattress covers shield bedding from moisture brought on by incontinence, pet accidents and accidental spills. At exactly the exact same time they protect the sleeper from dust mites, allergens and bedbugs. Regrettably, vinyl mattress covers might also prove uncomfortable, unhealthy and environmentally dangerous.

A Two-Way Barrier

While a vinyl mattress cover maintains fluids from entering into the bed below, it can also prevent moisture within the bed from evaporating harmlessly to the air over. When that trapped moisture becomes heated for hours at a time by body heat, it can interact with the bed fibers and create mold, mildew or fabric rot. It is possible to prevent this side effect by making absolutely certain the mattress is dry prior to obeying the plastic mattress cover.

Snap and Crackle Under Pop

The better grades of plastic mattress covers are designed with fabric design so they are more flexible. In contrast, the cheaper varieties tend to be thin plastic that produces a crackling noise when a arc shifts his body. Lower grade plastic mattress covers might also sense crunchy under the sheets, and they can stick to the fitted sheet on warmer nights when a sleeper’s perspiration dampens the bedding. To prevent these unpleasant side effects, analyze the bed covers you find at the store by gently bending and twisting them within the bundle; just select products that are flexible and quiet.

Environmental Risk

Environmentalists point to studies contending that the manufacture of vinyl is bad for the planet. Additionally, many vinyl products, such as bed covers, can include harmful plasticizers. Production demands the transport and application of chlorine gas, and it might also release dioxin to the eco-system. Workers in plastic factories could possibly be exposed to ongoing levels of airborne toxins that are suspected carcinogens. As an additional side effect, vinyl products can’t be recycled for new uses after they’ve outlived their function.

Health Risks

Vinyl mattress covers include vinyl chlorides and additives that improve flexibility — like phthalates, and also the World Health Organization speed as carcinogens. Based on WHO, that “new car smell” common to a lot of vinyl products is made up of potentially poisonous emissions, and those emissions might continue long after the item is new. A child’s developing body is more in danger from these toxins, and that the child would inhale for eight hours each night if sleeping on a plastic mattress cover. Short health effects include headaches, nausea and irritation to the eyes and respiratory tract. Long-term effects include nausea, fatigue, kidney and lung disorders and liver cancer.

An Alternative View

Not surprisingly, the Vinyl Institute points to studies that protect vinyl’s safety at the degrees within the consumer merchandise. Vinyl is widely used in medical gear, and it is also utilized in hospital floors and wall coverings. According to the American Public Health Association, vinyl is a secure compound that doesn’t emit harmful levels of poisonous substance. It’s safe enough to make approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Agency and the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

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The Best Climbing Perennials

Increasing perennials encompass an assortment of plants usually classified by their growth habits, which include twining, by tendrils. Climbing plants also consist of rambling rose, a hardy, versatile plant that becomes a show stopper when it rambles over a fence or other structure. Contrary to vining plants, climbing rose requires coaching to direct its growth.


A twiner is a plant that grows by wrapping its stems around the nearest support. Twiners require little care when planted against a hardy supporting structure, like an arbor, trellis or fence. Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, creates large saucer-like blooms and vibrant orange and salmon blossoms that appear in autumn and summer. Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) Is a twining plant that grows in USDA zones 4 through 10, creating white or purple flowers and reaching adult lengths of 30 feet.


Clingers have little, adhesive rootlets that cling quickly to your support. Clinging vines are sick advised against a wooden construction, as the vigorous climbers often cause structural damage. However, they easily grow up a brick or concrete wall or even a sturdy arbor, fence or trellis. Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petolaris) eventually reaches lengths of 30 to 50 feet growing in USDA zone 4 through 8. It’s appreciated for the clusters of sweet-smelling white flowers that appear in late spring and summer. Trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans) is a fast midsummer bloomer with showy trumpet-shaped blossoms, suitable for planting in USDA zones 4 through 10.


Tendril plants wrap lean, wispy tendrils around a supportive structure. Vines that climb by tendrils are usually less rambunctious than climbing vines and are suitable for growing against a chicken wire, chain link fence or other structure with little grids. Grape vines (Vitis spp.) Climb by means of tendrils. These attractive vines are dense enough to make some privacy when providing flavorful fruit. Although fever zones vary, nearly all grape pies tolerate USDA zones of 7 and above. Clematis (Clematis spp.) Is acceptable for growing in USDA zones 3 through 9 and comes in many varieties, providing blooms in shades of blue, purple, scarlet, white and pink.

Climbing Roses

Climbing roses are stunning when trained to grow up an arbor, trellis or fence. Like conventional roses, climbing roses arrive in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Autumn Sunset (Rosa “Autumn Sunset”) is a vigorous, apricot-gold climber that attains heights of 8 to 12 feet. City of York (Rosa “City of York”) is a 8-foot climber with deep green foliage and creamy white flowers. Seven Sisters (Rosa “Seven Sisters”) is a climber that reaches heights of around 20 feet using emerging blooms that are deep purple, gradually fading to pale mauve. Although growing zones vary, climbing roses are hardy plants that are unfazed by freezing temperatures and tough winters.

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Will My Camphor Tree Resprout New Growth if It's Severely Cut Back?

If you’ve got a camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) growing in your lawn, you probably are aware that it’s named for the camphor fragrance its leaves provide off when crushed. The tree only requires light pruning from time to time, however when your tree is outgrowing its area or its dense shade is preventing grass from growing in the area, you can prune if back severely and expect powerful new growth to look, as long as you prune at the ideal time and give the tree some extra care after trimming.

Choosing a Time

Evergreen camphor tree has glossy green leaves. It could possibly be 65 or 70 feet tall when older and, like most broad leaf evergreens, it tolerates heavy trimming, or renewal pruning, rather well. This is especially true if pruning is done in early spring, when the tree is already consented to put out a fresh flush of spring growth After spring pruning, tree wounds also tend to heal relatively quickly because the tree is actively growing. It’s not a good idea to do heavy pruning in fall or summer, because hot summer weather can stress the tree and slow fresh growth, while tender limbs which appear after fall pruning are easily damaged from winter’s cold.

Minimizing Tree Damage

When pruning back divisions on a camphor tree, use freshly sharpened pruning shears to avoid tearing the bark and damaging the tree branches. For high divisions, use a pole pruner with a sharp saw or pruning blade. Wash your pruning blade thoroughly with rubbing alcohol between each cut, to prevent the spread of plant diseases. To decrease the tree’s height, then trim back branches in the outer portions of the canopy. To thin the tree and generally lessen the dense shade under it, remove one of every three or four side branches from its major limbs. Make slanted cuts just ahead of the branch collar, which is the thickened area of bark close to a division’s origin. When shortening small side branches, cut each 1 back into a side branch or cut about 1/4 inch above of a side grass; that helps encourage growth of a new shoot behind the fresh cut.

Giving Extra Care

When you have pruned a camphor tree, minimize shock to the tree by giving it a little extra care can help encourage healthy new development. Add three or four inches of organic mulch like straw or shredded bark into the ground below the tree canopy, to help conserve moisture and keep down weeds. Keep the mulch back about 6 inches from the trunk to stop constant moisture against the bark, which can encourage fungal growth. During dry spells, provide the tree extra water, aiming to get about 1 inch of water per week, containing rain. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to minimize runoff of water and make sure the soil is thoroughly moistened.

Plannng Long Term

Camphor tree grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and is fast-growing, adding about 2 feet into its width and height each year. Although it grows quickly, it may be best to propagate heavy pruning out over several years, rather than doing all the pruning in one season. Prune some development during the current spring, then observe the tree’s response to choose how soon to prune again. If new development is strong and vigorous, you can safely prune the tree each spring, until you achieve the desired outcome. But when the tree’s response to pruning is slow or new development only appears on a few divisions, wait a year or two to provide the tree a few extra recovery period prior to repeating the pruning process.

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What's the Stringy Stuff Falling From Your Own Oak Tree?

Graceful old oak trees, dripping with strange green plants bring about mind Spanish moss growing on Southern live oak trees (Quercus virginiana). In case your oak is located on the other side of the nation, though, it is probably a Coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia) that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. That stringy stuff hanging on it might be mistletoe, a lichen or perhaps part of the tree.

Under the Live Oak Tree

Often towering over 50 feet with a spread almost as large, based on the variety, oaks are a number of the world’s largest trees. Evergreen live oaks thrive in coastal locations. The coast live oak and interior live oak (Quercus wiislizenii), that grows in USDA zones 6 through 10, have shiny, spiky leaves. The Southern live oak, native to coastal regions of the southeast from USDA zones 8 through 11, plays host to many epiphytic plants, including the iconic Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides), but both of the tree and its fellow traveler Behavior demand high humidity and dampness, which will be missing west of the Mississippi. Spanish moss grows in the same zones — USDA zones 8 through 11 — as its host oak tree.

Live Oak Catkins

Live oaks blossom in spring, creating long catkins that curtain gracefully from the ends of their branches. If your tree is shedding stringy stuff in spring, then it might be engaging in its yearly flowering where the long male catkins let loose pounds of yellow mud and then fall from the tree as fresh leaves push out them. Other oaks create catkins, but live oaks generate impressive batches of their hanging blooms.

Underneath the Mistletoe

One variety of mistletoe (Phoradendron villosum), a parasitic plant, which possibly grows on all oaks in USDA zones 6b through 11. The plants root from the tree bark in the upper parts of the tree. Strands of the shrubby plant arch up to two feet from branches. The female plants produce seeds from the plant’s signature white berries that birds find delicious. The birds spread seeds to lower branches and also to higher branches of neighboring trees. In case your oak tree hosts mistletoe, its oval leaves become visible as the tree sheds old leaves in spring. In deciduous oaks, the plants become evident as the trees shed their leaves in late autumn.

3D Lichen

Lichens aren’t parasitic, but epiphytic — and they’re not officially plants. They live from sunlight along with the moisture from the air. Lace lichen (Ramalina menziesii) resembles Spanish moss in its stringy growth pattern and has been mistaken for its eastern lichen for ages. Lace lichen hangs in long “beards” and tends to grow on trees near rivers. Other lichens also hang from oaks, but lace lichen is striking — and ordinary enough to be assassinated as the state lichen from the California Lichen Society. If the stringy stuff in your oak hangs like good beards, turns gray in the winter or dry season and also breaks off in lacy clumps, it is probably a stringy, or “fruticose” lichen.

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Blackberry Bush vs. Poison Ivy

Poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) and blackberry (Rubus spp.) May resemble each other at first glance, but just poison ivy contains urushiol. This chemical, which can be from the plant’s sap, which can cause severe itching, an inflamed rash and blistering after it contacts human skin. Blackberry, on the other hand, provides healthful fruits, even in the wild. Poison ivy is hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10; blackberry species’ hardiness ranges vary, with Rubus fruticosus hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10. So poison ivy and blackberry share a few locations. 1 common expression, “Leaves of three, let it be,” often, but not always, holds true if differentiating poison ivy plants from blackberry plants.

Tell-Tale Leaves

Examine the leaves to help distinguish a blackberry bush from poison ivy. Both plants’ leaves develop in a three-leaf design originally, however, as a blackberry bush rises, all its two bottom leaves split into two leaves, leading to a five-leaf cluster. In terms of colour, poison ivy leaves are green while the bottom of blackberry leaves are light green to greenish-white. If the leaves are wrinkly, it’s a blackberry bush. Poison ivy leaves are smooth. Also, some blackberry species possess serrated leaves while poison ivy doesn’t, though some poison ivy leaves are notched.

A Thorny Situation

Should you see thorns or spines on the plant’s stems, then you are likely considering a blackberry bush. Poison ivy doesn’t sport thorns. Thornless types of blackberries exist, nevertheless. So don’t rely solely on thorns to distinguish poison ivy out of blackberry.

Berries of a Different Colour

The ripe fruits of a blackberry bush are dark, ranging from purplish-black to black, and the unripe berries may be red. Poison ivy additionally has berries, but they’re light green when young and grayish-white, white or cream when mature. Blackberry fruits are aggregates, meaning each “berry” is composed of a number of individual fruits which form a single cluster, or berry. Poison ivy has sole berries.

Growth Habit

An elastic plant, poison ivy has a number of growth habits. It can develop as a woody shrub, a creeper that spreads across the floor and as a climbing vine. Blackberry bushes form dense thickets, or brambles, in the wild. When blackberry bushes are elongated, their canes can be erect, semi-erect or trailing.

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Can I Prune Lavender Bushes in February?

Whether you’re using your lavender (Lavandula) crops for exotic cooking, for aromatic oils, or merely for their pleasant scent around your garden, sooner or later, your plants are going to want some cutting back. But February is typically a time when your lavender plants are in their dormant stage, and therefore, it’s not exactly the best time for pruning.

When to Prune

The best times to prune your lavender plants is during the new-growth stage during the first spring, or after they have flowered. The University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources recommends pruning after the plants have flowered in the summertime, while Colorado State University’s Extension service recommends doing it as the green leaves begin to come out in the spring. A spring pruning will remove any dead or unattractive old growth and permit new growth to thrive, even though a summer pruning can encourage further summer blooming. Another benefit of pruning after flowering: you’ll get to utilize those attractive, pleasant-smelling flowers in sachets or in bouquets. Whatever you choose — or whether you choose the two options — it needs to be apparent that February is somewhat too early — or somewhat too late — to get ideal pruning.

Frost-Hardy Lavender

If you’re developing a frost-hardy variety of the plant, such as English lavender (Lavendula angustifolia), hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 8, or lavandin, (Lavendula x intermedia), hardy from USDA zones 5 to 9, a hybrid of Lavendula latifolia and Lavendula angustifolia, you might discover that it blooms more than once annually. If you’re choosing the summer-pruning choice, the best course is to prune right after the flowers bloom, suggests the U.K.’s Downderry Nursery. The nursery specialists there urge pruning back to a plant height of about 9 inches, leaving a few small shoots intact, and then continuing to cut fresh flowers as they bloom.

Other Varieties

Other varieties of lavender are far less cold tolerant, such as Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas), hardy from USDA zones 7 to 10, and French lavender (Lavendula dentata) hardy from USDA zones 8 to 11. These types may bloom only once. Prune them in the summer after flowering, recommends the Downderry Nursery, and leave several blooms intact to permit for new growth, as you would with the other more frost-hardy varieties. If you decide to prune them in spring, do it when new growth starts, cutting away any old growth, avoiding cutting into the woody stems, and departing the new growth intact.

Pruning Safely

Whether you’re pruning just before the end of the dormancy period in spring or you’re doing it after your lavender flowers, it’s always a good idea to practice decent pruning hygiene. To put it differently, be certain that you’re cleaning your pruning clippers and shears so as to avoid spreading diseases from plant to plant and season to date. Brush off any loose dirt, and then soak the resources in a solution of one part bleach to three parts water, which indicates the University of Florida IFAS Extension.

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How to Know Bush Squash Out Of Vine Squash

Squashes, including butternut, acorn and spaghetti, make a tasty addition to snacks that are sweet and foods. Squashes have a tendency to grow on bushes or on climbing vines. All summer months, such as zucchini and crookneck, grow on bushes that are non-vining. Even though some varieties have a bushing habit winter squashes are inclined to grow vines. It’s hard to tell whether a squash seedling will develop into a bush-type or a vine-type just. Seed packs and plant maintenance tags contain the info you need to determine the plant’s growth habit. As they grow also, watching the squashes lets you know whether the crops are bushes or vines.

Start looking for the words”summer” or”winter” on the plant’s care label or seed packet. It grows on a bush if the plant is a summer squash.

If the plant is a winter squash determine the number. For instance, the”Table Queen” number of acorn squash grows on vines, while the”Table King” and”Cream of the Crop” varieties grow on bushes. Most butternuts grow on vines, but the”Ponca” variety has a semi-bushing habit.

Because it grows, watch the plant. Vine-type squashes develop long vines that can grow between 10 and 20 ft in length. Bush-type squashes possess a more compact look.

Put supporting or around. The trellis wills climb. Bush types will not.

Have a look at the rind of the fruit. Summer squashes mainly have a rind, while winter, squashes that are vine-type have a tendency to have a thick rind.

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