Category: Tropical Style

Pond algae is unsightly and may be detrimental to the health of the pond. Too much algae can clog filters and choke out plants. Microscopic floating algae is beneficial in small amounts, but large amounts of this planktonic algae, in addition to blanket and string algae, have to be controlled for the benefit of the pond ecosystem. If the pond comprises chemical, fish algae control might not be an alternative. There are non-chemical approaches to keep algae from the pond that won’t harm plants or fish. When the algae is under control, a couple of maintenance changes will help keep away the algae.

Remove the plants and fish from the pond and set them in temporary home if the pond is small enough for this to be achievable. Drain the water from the pond until the bottom and sides are exposed.

Coat the algae-covered regions with a non-iodized salt. Wait three days to get the salt to dry up the algae. Scrub the dried algae from the sides of the pond, the filtration system, water features, and some other rocks or decorations at the pond. Rinse out the pond before the algae is gone. Refill the pond.

Skim the debris from the pond surface and use a pond vacuum or net to remove the debris from the base of the pond if draining is not an alternative. Eliminate as much of the debris as possible to remove the algae’s nutrient resource.

Add barley straw to the pond to control algae. Use .025 pounds of straw per square yard of surface area. Put the straw in a mesh bag with a rock for weight. Put the bag in the pond and let it sink to the bottom. As the straw decomposes, it releases a chemical that controls algae. It works best if added in the spring before the algae gets overwhelming.

Install air diffusers to circulate the pond water. Algae forms in stagnant water that has stratified so there is less oxygen at the base of the pond. Keeping the water moving leaves the environment less habitable for algae.

Reduce fish feeding. Only give fish sufficient food they can eat in five minutes. If fish are overfed, the nutrients that feed the algae development are found in much higher proportions at the pond.

Maintain a skimmer handy. Remove debris that falls on the pond surface before it sinks to the bottom of the pond to decompose. Depriving the algae of this extra nutrients keeps it from growing.

Add plants both in and around the pond. Aquatic plants will compete with the algae for nutrients. They also add more shade to the pond. Small plants, trees or shrubs planted near the pond will add some extra attention to this pond area, and will provide more shade to the water. Algae needs sunlight to grow. The less sunlight available, the less algae there’ll be.

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Pineapples (Ananas comosus) are tropical plants that do best in warmer temperatures between 65 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. In Mediterranean-type climates where the winters often dip close to freezing, pineapple plants do best if brought inside during the winter season. They grow well in containers which are at least 3 gallons, making moving them inside a feasible choice. If you would rather plant your pineapples in the soil outside, take steps in the winter to maintain your plants warm and healthy.

Water the pineapple every two to three times, even if the weather is chilly. Deficiency of moisture can cause the soil to release heat more quickly and cause the plant to be dried. Dehydrated plants get rid of moisture from their leaves more quickly, often resulting in internal tissue damage. Pineapples are a member of the bromeliad family, and although many bromeliads absorb water through the stiff-leaf “cup” in the middle of the plant, pineapples use their roots. Water the area at least 12 inches around the plant thoroughly each time.

Spread mulch around the ground around the plant at least 12 to 24 inches in all directions from the plant base, maintaining it 2 to 4 inches deep. Organic mulches, such as wood chips, can help the soil retain moisture and heat. Rock and gravel mulches can also help reflect heat up toward the base of the plant, particularly white or light-colored rock. The rocks have a tendency to retain heat more than organic mulches, making them a great selection for winter. In summer, the stone can reflect too much heat and burn the bottom leaves of the plant, so pull it off from the foundation in the latest months.

Drive four wooden stakes in the ground around the pineapple plant and then put a sheet or blanket over the bets. The stakes should be tall enough so that the blanket does not touch the leaves. Tie string between the stakes in a crisscross pattern if required to prevent the blanket from sagging in the center. On nights when you anticipate cold weather, use a blanket big enough to touch the ground on all sides of the plant, and chew over the edges down with rocks or landscaping staples. Just when the plant is completely covered does the blanket help hold in heat. Eliminate the blanket in the daytime when the sun pops up.

String exterior holiday lights across the base of the plant, but don’t let the lights touch the plant. This produces some heat in the blanketed area. Or, use a 100-watt light bulb attached to an outdoor light fixture or about a mild extension cord. These should also be situated near the base of the plant and turned off each morning.

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Greenhouse plants usually favor the comfortable temperature range of 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit for the ideal growth, based on the species. Directly related to the temperature is that the indoor humidity. Plants exposed to excess humidity levels have a tendency to suffer with leaf disorders and stunting; they cannot transpire moisture easily through their stomata. Moisture control based on greenhouse temperatures requires monitoring of both heat and ventilation.

Temperature and Humidity

In general, higher greenhouse temperatures hold more water in the surrounding air mass. For example, if you maintain an indoor temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit, your relative humidity is put as high as 91 percent. By upping your temperature, your humidity rises as well. Consequently, you control moisture with a greater temperature; water cannot condense out of the atmosphere to damage foliage without a drop in temperature.

Venting

Keeping your greenhouse in an even temperature is a struggle for any gardener; daytime and nighttime temperature fluctuations vary widely among areas. Avoid hot or cold spots in the waterfront environment by employing wall air ports and horizontal fans to keep the air properly mixed. For example, venting air from the exterior brings in new carbon dioxide. Horizontal fans prevent unexpected falls in greenhouse temperatures so the dew point cannot be met; condensation looks on foliage once the dew point is accomplished.

Greenhouse Heating

An excellent greenhouse heating system typically comes with a timer and set temperature range. For a successful plant collection, you must put the heater into the optimum range for your individual species alternative; the heater cycles on and off based on the surrounding atmosphere temperatures. By selecting a greater temperature range for the plant species, then you control the moisture in the atmosphere. In general, the greenhouse inside should be hotter than the exterior atmosphere for the best moisture control.

Warming the Plants

The plant surfaces themselves usually have a lower temperature than the surrounding air mass. This temperature gap presents a moisture control problem; the thin atmosphere layer surrounding the plant, such as a huge fruit, which may condense moisture onto the foliage since the fruit has a lower surface temperature. As a solution, gardeners utilize glowing heat beneath the camel holding the plants. Gentle and constant heat in the radiant heat allows the plant surfaces to heat to the same temperature as the surrounding air mass. Moisture control is much more secure with air and plant temperatures equaling one another.

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Spruce trees (Picea spp.) are coniferous evergreens that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8. They function best in well-draining soil and full sun or light shade. Their sharp, four-sided needles develop outward around the circumference of division stems. Spruce trees require minimal cutting and therefore are intolerant of heavy duty. Trimming them is best limited to eliminating their dead and damaged branches and also to encouraging new take growth for fuller trees.

Cut each spruce tree’s lifeless branches back to the tree’s trunk. If a branch does not have any needles, it is probably dead and may be removed. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle just beyond the branch collar. The branch collar is the slightly enlarged place where the branch joins the trunk; a branch collar also rises where a branch originates from the other branch. Use loppers to cut tiny branches along with a pruning saw to cut branches bigger than one inch in diameter.

Cut each damaged or diseased division back to 1 inch outside a bud in the event the harm or infection is confined to the branch tip. In case you have to cut back needle growth, then get rid of the whole division because it won’t regrow.

Trim the tips of new growth 1 inch outside a bud with pruning shears to support new side shoots and create fuller spruce trees. Do not trim growth older than the current season, and do not remove over one-third of the new-season growth at one time.

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A prosperous home watermelon crop begins with choosing the proper watermelon variety to your area. Most varieties are best suited to southern growing regions, however there are varieties that grow well in northern regions. Watermelons require a long-growing season using a warm summer, humid atmosphere and lots space. These melons are easy to grow when planting in fertile, well-drained soil with complete sun.

Full Sun

Watermelons need full sun for proper growth. For full sun, choose a place where watermelons get eight to ten hours of direct sunlight. The plants need sun to stay healthy and productive. Choose a garden place where trees, buildings or other constructions don’t block sunlight and shade the plants. Watermelons also benefit from black plastic mulch to help attract sun and heats the soil, as these melons need warm soil temperature for proper growth.

Effects of Not Enough Sunlight

Watermelons grown under cloudy circumstances or that don’t get enough sunlight frequently create badly flavored fruit. Sunshine warms the soil, and watermelons need soil temperatures over 60 degrees F for their roots to absorb water. When the sunny weather yields, moisture evaporates from leaves faster than roots absorb water, resulting in rapid wilting and plant death. Transplants can suffer from lack of sunlight too; fresh plants which endure cloudy or rainy weather for four or more days can die.

Warmth

Warm air temperatures are important for watermelon development, and glowing, summer weather provides the correct growing temperatures. Watermelons are pollinated by insects, such as the honeybee, and cool, wet weather slows honeybee activity and affects the flower structure, preventing the release of pollen while the pistil is receptive. Poorly pollinated watermelons produce misshapen fruit. Watermelons need warm temperatures to produce sweet fruit. Seeds need warmth to germinate also. For success with germination, ensure soil temperatures are between 65 and 95 degrees.

Tip for Growing Watermelons

Plant watermelons after all risk of frost have passed, because they cannot withstand a light frost. Watermelons need good air circulation, so space them about 6 to 12 feet apart. Maintaining the melons sufficient space and sun keeps them moist and helps to avoid infection. Watermelons will need to remain evenly moist and never permitted to dry out. Watermelons are ripe if they create a dull thud when thumbed. When selecting, it is best to cut them from the vine and not pull them.

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Selecting an orange variety that’s suitable to miniaturization is key to cultivating a successful bonsai orange plant. Calamondin (Citrus mitis) and Satsuma mandarin (Citrus reticulata) are two types that adapt well to bonsai treatment and are hardy from the Mediterranean climate. As with any citrus tree, they require full sun with plenty of bright light every day to thrive. If exterior temperatures require that the plant be grown indoors, the gardener will need to take particular care to set the orange plants in a well-lit window or greenhouse where they can get adequate light and warmth for best results.

Hardiness Zone

The Calamondin (Citrus mitis) orange is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. The Satsuma mandarin (Citrus reticulata) is hardy in zone 9. Move both indoors when overnight temperatures drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cold Tolerance

The University of Florida reports that dormant, older Satsuma mandarin trees have been known to withstand temperatures as low as 14 degrees Fahrenheit without harm. The Calamondin is the hardiest of this true citrus, withstanding temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

Germination

If starting an orange tree bonsai from seed, monitor the soil temperature for optimal growing conditions. Because of citrus, orange seeds germinate best in a temperature selection of 64 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Maintain the seedlings moist but not waterlogged by spraying or dipping the pots in a water bath; this allows the soil to absorb water from the bottom up to prevent overwatering that prevents germination and suitable growth.

Maintenance

Orange plants grow best at temperatures between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit and may be placed outdoors during warm, summer months. When overnight temperatures drop below 55 degrees, orange increase will slow or stop. Although both the Satsuma and the Calamondin orange plants can withstand lower temperatures, it’s wise not to stress young trees too much from the first few decades, but keep them warm enough to support vigorous growth and growth.

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Flowers bloom at different times of the year. As an example, sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) bloom early spring, while chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum morifolium), at U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, bloom in the fall. Some flowers, like clematis (Clematis), bloom in spring, summer or fall. Other flowers, like roses (Rosa), bloom from spring through early winter in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. Understanding when the flowers bloom helps a gardener organize the expression of the landscape and make sure that’s it colorful all through the year.

Biennials

Biennials like hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), USDA hardiness zones 3 through 8, don’t bloom at all the first year. The energy of this plant can be used to develop a healthy bush with a strong root system. The plant blooms the next year, sets seed and then dies. Like annuals, some easily reseed themselves and develop season after season, giving the impression that they are perennials. Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica), USDA zones 3 through 9, blooms in spring. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea L.) blossoms in spring. It prefers cooler climates; nevertheless, 1 variety, “Spanish Peaks” foxglove (Digitalis thapsi “Spanish Peaks”), which rises in USDA zones 5 through 9.

Spring Perennials

Perennials contain spring flowering bulbs like freesia (Freesia), USDA hardiness zones 9 through 10, and iris (Iris ensata), USDA zones 3 through 9 . Other spring bloomers include pincushion flower (Scabiosa sp.) , USDA zones 3 through 9, which has been bloom until early fall, and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), USDA zones 2 through 9. It does not tolerate heat and shouted back in the summertime.

Summer Perennials

The summer garden is full of perennials such as yarrow (Achillea), USDA zones 3 through 9, with its flat head of hundreds of tiny blossoms in yellow, purple or pink. The blossoms are held over the plant’s foliage on sturdy stems. It’s a favored to dry. Coneflowers (Rudbekia), USDA zones 4 through 10, bloom with daisy-shaped flowers which have bright purple petals and a dark brown center.

Fall Perennials

Chrysanthemums are most likely the best-known fall flower. Colors include yellow, white, purple and rust. Among the flower forms are pincushion, quill and daisy. Flower sizes range from button mums, less than 1 inch in diameter, to spider mums, over 6 inches round. Asters (Aster novae-angliae), USDA zones 4 through 8, are another fall-blooming perennial.

Winter

Not many flowers bloom in the winter where the weather is cold and frosty. However, in warm winter areas like USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10, the fall perennials continue to bloom until early spring perennials take over. Geraniums (Pelargonium graveolens), USDA zones 9 through 12, pansies (Violax wittrockiana), USDA zones 4 through 8, and snapdragons (Antirrhinum), USDA zones 9 through 11, bloom as well.

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Spray roses refer to roses that develop clusters of blossoms on one stem or branch. Contrary to long-stem roses that produce one bloom per stem, these roses create a spray of smaller blossoms and are generally sold as sweetheart roses at the florist. Spray roses can, however, be grown in a pot and are generally labeled as mini roses.

Rose Variety

Floribunda roses produce a few blossoms on a branched stem often called a spray. These flowers are nestled tightly in a cluster. Each bud opens separately. The spray of roses often contains climbed in various stages of adulthood, from tight buds to fully open flowers.

Use

Spray roses constitute the bulk of little bouquets and corsages, together with the foliage creating an attractive background for the brightly colored blooms. Sprays are ideal for little floral arrangements where bigger roses may be overpowering. They add a touch of romance to some setting or occasion.

Bloom Type

Like other roses, spray roses could be single, double or semi-double flowers. Single flowers have one layer of four to eight petals, while semi-double flowers have anywhere from eight to 25 petals. Double blooms could have up to 45 petals. Bloom color is similar to other fireworks, which range from white and pink to deep red.

Size

Spray roses typically have smaller blossoms compared to other roses. Because the flowers are close together, one spray resembles a little bouquet held together by thin stems that join a thicker main stem. Though there are exceptions, even with some full-length floribunda roses forming a spray, generally, spray roses are prized for their mini size and dainty cluster of blooms.

Potted Spray Roses

Spray roses grown in pots tend to be mini roses. These roses obtain their name from the blossom size — maybe not the size of the plant. When transplanted to the garden, or grown in a large container, mini roses often climb to heights of 12 to 36 inches.

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Figs are one of the least complicated fruits to develop and the trees endure few disease or pest problems. Figs thrive in the warmer climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. The trees thrive in containers, which is particularly helpful in colder zones because you can move them to a protected area in winter. Choose many different fig tree that self-pollinates for best outcomes. Some kinds of fig tree, such as “Brown Turkey,” are far better suited for colder climates than many others.

Steep a handful of compost or organic fertilizer in water overnight, then strain and pour the water onto the soil each month until late night. At the onset of the season, dig a handful of compost into the container soil.

Keep the tree well-watered through the summer and spring, watering when the soil is dry 1 inch beneath the surface. Should you allow the soil dry out completely, the leaves will drop off as well as the tree is not as likely to produce fruit.

Prune the fig tree as required to control its growth. Cut off any dead sections of wood and remove branches that are growing across other divisions. The ideal time to prune is after harvest, notes horticulturist Ellen Barrado of Bowood Farms.

Wrap the container using a sheet of burlap or a blanket in the winter to protect the tree’s roots from deep snow and frost. If the temperatures drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, your very best choice is to bring the container indoors to a cool and dark area, like a basement or garage, to get the winter. The tree should be dormant until you bring it in. Water the container to keep the soil from totally drying out but do not worry when the tree drops its leaves in the winter.

Check the fig tree for almost any insects, such as aphids, before you bring it indoors for the winter or outdoors for the season. “Organic Gardening” magazine recommends spraying the tree with dormant oil, which will suffocate and kill any insects until you bring the tree in it.

Re-pot that the fig tree every two or three years using fresh container soil. Carefully remove the tree and its roots in the container. Empty from the container and then clean it thoroughly, or utilize a new grass. Fill the container with fresh ground and replant the tree, being careful not to cover the crown.

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Vinyl waterproof mattress covers shield bedding from moisture brought on by incontinence, pet accidents and accidental spills. At exactly the exact same time they protect the sleeper from dust mites, allergens and bedbugs. Regrettably, vinyl mattress covers might also prove uncomfortable, unhealthy and environmentally dangerous.

A Two-Way Barrier

While a vinyl mattress cover maintains fluids from entering into the bed below, it can also prevent moisture within the bed from evaporating harmlessly to the air over. When that trapped moisture becomes heated for hours at a time by body heat, it can interact with the bed fibers and create mold, mildew or fabric rot. It is possible to prevent this side effect by making absolutely certain the mattress is dry prior to obeying the plastic mattress cover.

Snap and Crackle Under Pop

The better grades of plastic mattress covers are designed with fabric design so they are more flexible. In contrast, the cheaper varieties tend to be thin plastic that produces a crackling noise when a arc shifts his body. Lower grade plastic mattress covers might also sense crunchy under the sheets, and they can stick to the fitted sheet on warmer nights when a sleeper’s perspiration dampens the bedding. To prevent these unpleasant side effects, analyze the bed covers you find at the store by gently bending and twisting them within the bundle; just select products that are flexible and quiet.

Environmental Risk

Environmentalists point to studies contending that the manufacture of vinyl is bad for the planet. Additionally, many vinyl products, such as bed covers, can include harmful plasticizers. Production demands the transport and application of chlorine gas, and it might also release dioxin to the eco-system. Workers in plastic factories could possibly be exposed to ongoing levels of airborne toxins that are suspected carcinogens. As an additional side effect, vinyl products can’t be recycled for new uses after they’ve outlived their function.

Health Risks

Vinyl mattress covers include vinyl chlorides and additives that improve flexibility — like phthalates, and also the World Health Organization speed as carcinogens. Based on WHO, that “new car smell” common to a lot of vinyl products is made up of potentially poisonous emissions, and those emissions might continue long after the item is new. A child’s developing body is more in danger from these toxins, and that the child would inhale for eight hours each night if sleeping on a plastic mattress cover. Short health effects include headaches, nausea and irritation to the eyes and respiratory tract. Long-term effects include nausea, fatigue, kidney and lung disorders and liver cancer.

An Alternative View

Not surprisingly, the Vinyl Institute points to studies that protect vinyl’s safety at the degrees within the consumer merchandise. Vinyl is widely used in medical gear, and it is also utilized in hospital floors and wall coverings. According to the American Public Health Association, vinyl is a secure compound that doesn’t emit harmful levels of poisonous substance. It’s safe enough to make approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Agency and the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

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